How to choose a gusset watch?

If you love watches and originality, the gusset watch is for you! Invented in the 16th century, this type of watch, worn in the pocket rather than on the wrist, has always been a symbol of refinement and savoir-vivre. But, let’s face it, these days it’s a bit extravagant. So choose wisely, and here’s how.

The type of case

There are three types of dial for this type of watch. The hunter dial features a clamshell that completely closes and protects the watch. The clapper is usually fitted with a spring and a system for clipping the clapper to the case. The demi-chasseur dial has a clapper that leaves an opening when the clapper is closed, allowing the wearer to see the time without opening it. The open dial, on the other hand, has no flap. The choice between these types of dial depends solely on your taste, and there is no real technical or aesthetic preference for one or the other.

The movement

A pocket watch can have a battery-operated, mechanical or automatic movement. Although the latter two should be preferred for their authenticity and technicality, it is still possible to consider a quartz or battery-operated watch, provided its aesthetics and materials are satisfactory. If you opt for an antique watch, which is often the case for this type of timepiece, you will undoubtedly come across mechanical or automatic movements, and will then have to pay the generally high price.

The chain

The chain on your watch is of the utmost importance, as it is the part of the watch that remains visible at all times. It must therefore be aesthetically pleasing and made from a high-quality, robust material. Ideally, gold and steel are the most sought-after metals for pocket watches, but other alloys can also do the trick, as long as they’re not too fragile.

For the type of chain, you can choose between a T-Bar, designed to secure the watch in the buttonhole of a vest or suit jacket, and a clip chain, which allows the watch to be attached to a belt or trouser buckle.

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